Day 28

And continues the incessant bark from the dog next door. In fact, several dogs stay up tonight and vigorously communicate from miles apart, and the reason why? The wolf call that occasionally intercepts and shuts them all up. 

This evening, we packed up rapidly after cooking because the thunder and lightning had caught our camp and with them came rain. Over the sandy tracks and bordering scrubs, I trekked to the white washroom block to use the sinks. A friendly Irish lady also cleaned her pots and pans there. She is a motorcyclist, 70 years old, and is stuck in camp while her camper van’s electrics are repaired. She has the most incredible and lively eyes; huge orbs coloured by forest and ocean, fringed by warm earth. Unfortunately, she has severe arthritis in one of her hips and so, has sold her motorcycle as she can no longer get on and off. Humble and gentle, she told me that she’s had a good life and it is what it is. Now, she rides a scooter and jokes that it’s not the same when she pulls up at a biker cafe.

On her recommendation, we plan to ride the Serra da Estrela, Star Mountain Range, tomorrow. She was happy to hear of our trip and gave this wisdom…

Jogging back from the washrooms, I use my torch to scan the scene and as a flash of lightning forks, the whole camp is momentarily illuminated. I see two bright white eyes watching me. I halt and use my torch to trace the creature, but it’s already vanished into the bushes. Earlier on, I questioned the 8-foot-high metal fence surrounding our campsite, now I understand its purpose.