Day 30

Travelling closer to the equator, dusk sets in so quickly now. One moment it’s twilight-tinted day, then pop to the loos and come out to find the camp’s night lights switched on and the sky above filled with consolations that look askew. As well as the shifting skyline, our roadside geology has also changed. We ride past succulent scrublands with cacti-prickled rocks, boulder-sprawled expanses with cork oaks sunning, and rugged stacks of granite with veins of pale quartz. 

For 3 nights we will rest in Evora. The hope is to bypass the rain and also get Maloo’s rear brake repaired, which has a seized slider bolt that prevents the pads from moving as intended. A quick shower in our cabin’s basic washroom, then a walk into Evora’s old town to look for an authentic Portuguese restaurant. 

A huge sandstone big-block wall surrounds the old town. Inside, hop over marble slabs and amble down tiny cobblestone streets, all filled with restaurants, take-away shops, bistros and cafes. Our chosen restaurant is hard to locate, a barrel sits outside that supports an array of old wine bottles, now converted into candlestick holders, but the front door is closed. After indecisively hovering for a few moments, the door opens and a friendly gentleman, dressed in a starched white shirt and neat black apron, emerges. His name is Miguel, and with a wholesome smile, he welcomes us in. 

Bistro Barão can seat a maximum of only ten guests. The walls are filled with memorabilia, souvenirs and art depicting cuisine still life. In my plush velour seat, I take time to appreciate a depiction of a courgette. Miguel enthusiastically chats, entertains and floats around his restaurant having a grand old time. The wines is served. I swirl it in my glass, take a sip, pass air through my mouth, move it into the different regions of my palette, swallow and take more air. I give a glowing approval and admire the legs running down my broad glass. It’s fantastic; a mild aroma, dry and full-bodied, with a smooth and satisfying aftertaste. I also know it will only improve with food. 

Behind us, a couple are reclined, their bodies and faces are relaxed and they gently chat and laugh with Miguel. I believe they have been here on several occasions before. Soon, Miguel returns and presents a selection of fine cheeses and dry-cured ham. Perfect with my wine. And when my main course arrives, I feel food bliss. Close my eyes and slowly savour the flavours. Sniff and absorb each fork full’s aroma, move the food into my mouth and place it against each different palette plate. Then, relish how the fats dissolve, proteins fall apart, and salts burst. 

My highest praise goes out to Miguel’s exceptional restaurant and the talented chefs of Bistro Barão.

So, it’s been put off for a long time now, but today, a mechanic has finally treated poor Maloo’s seized rear brake. The treatment went on for a few hours. Throughout, we heard an array of tools being used and a lot of hammering, banging, and knocking. Then a short gap, more banging, and then the drilling and water cooling started! Then, thankfully, it subsided. The receptionist came to us, and I feared the worst, but he only asked for Maloo’s keys.

We heard old Maloo firing up with her choke on and listened to her little thumper engine being ridden up and down the block. When she returned the receptionist guided me out to show the work done. I pushed the rear calliper and it now had movement, this was great! 

And on the road, Maloo felt like a new bike! Her rear brake was working again and even more, her balance had dramatically improved. I could now stand up without her resisting my movements and move her into corners without her fighting the transition. Goodbye seized rear brake, hello bike synergy!